Today we’re in Austin, talking to Bryce Gilmore whose geography-defying, market-driven tasting menus at Barley Swine earned the chef two James Beard Award nominations in 2013 (“Best Chef: Southwest” and “Rising Star”). In the midst of opening his second brick-and-mortar restaurant, the hotly anticipated Odd Duck, Gilmore refueled with a bowl of bubbling French onion soup. Here he tells us about the restorative powers of épicerie’s warm, Gruyere-topped crock.
WHAT I ATE: French onion soup
WHERE I ATE IT: épicerie (2307 Hancock Dr, Austin; 512-371-6840)
WHY IT'S SO GOOD: French onion soup is a classic dish that’s hard to perfect and épicierie has it figured out. It takes the chef three days to make a batch and it’s delicious topped with a slice of good gruyere. épicerie is a fast-casual bistro where you order at the counter and grab a seat; on this day in particular I didn’t have a lot of time so I wanted something quick and delicious, something worth it. We don’t get a true, snowy winter in Austin but when it’s cold here all I want is something hearty and warm and this does the trick.
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